Monday, December 22, 2014

Babylock Coverstitch Binder - a Tutorial of Sorts (Part II)

Well, so much for a saying this might be a single post. I guess there's a character limit?  So, now there's a part II. 

Get the Fold Started (this is the tricky part!):

Use tweezers to roll the fabric at the top of the spout toward you.  It should be the full length of upper lip (see photo on left).  The "No" photos show that the fabric is not fully  across the upper lip and this will slip out while sewing.  Practice doing this wrong a few times so the difference is obvious.  



YES - Top (right side showing) fills the upper lip of tube without curling


YES - nice even binding


NO - Top (right side showing) is too skimpy and will fall off

 
NO - center fell out of top lip and didn't fold under 









 
 
Hand roll (Ok, this is where I was really just making it up as I went - make it work!)

First photo – fold over

2nd photo – double fold over (as in finished bind where bottom is single layer and top is double fold layer)

3rd photo – bend it around to position it under foot.







Starter Stitches on Binding – without Fabric

Start stitching to see how it all lines up and to get a grip.

Audition your stitch lines over the binding.  Adjust positioning to your preference with screwdriver, if necessary (accounting for additional fabric in next step). I like mine with both stitchlines on the binding, but others like the two threadlines straddling the binding edge (one on binding and one on shirt).
 
 

 
 
one style - both threadlines on binding
 
 
This was my maiden voyage so my outer stitch line veered off the binding at the 5 o'clock position here. Practice makes perfect!



Whoops! On the front of course!
Add shirt

Once you’ve gotten a good start (about 1-3”), then add fabric.

Use tweezers to guide fabric right into that opening and make sure the upper binding is curling properly and filling the upper lip.  I watched a Youtube video and the lady just let hers rip, "look ma no hands!" style. I, on the other hand, felt I had to carefully guide with the tweezers the whole time to make sure that upper lip was filled just right.
 

 

Finish up

Once the binding has made it all around, trim excess and stitch up that seam you left open in the beginning.

Close 'er up!
 
 
Use screwdriver to move upper piece to right to allow for regular coverstitch use.  Can keep binder attached to machine when not in use.

All slid over to the right (but still attached) so you can do regular coverstitching and switch back and forth easily. 


You're done! 
Pat yourself on the back and admire your professional looking binding. Let me know if you have any luck with this technique!


Again, I might not check this very often so I apologize in advance if I don't see your questions very often. Maybe others will be able to answer them better anyway.  There are lots of really experienced and helpful sewists out there! 

Also, if someone has already done a great tutorial and I missed it, please provide a link. 

Babylock Coverstitch Binder - a Tutorial of Sorts (Part I)


Ok, this may be a single post blog since I don't see myself keeping it up.  That being said, I hope this one post is helpful.

I've always liked the store bought look of a bound-around neckline but found it time consuming to execute.  So I was excited to read about a coverstitch binder attachment which would theoretically automate it.

Cleanly bound neckline

I ordered this shiny new toy off an eBay seller.  Sometimes I wished I forked over the extra $$ for the official Babylock model only for the reason of getting official training from the store salespeople! It's a monster and the easily intimidated might just stuff it back in the plastic packaging and tuck it in the back of the drawer. I was tempted. 


Binder type "A" - this is honking huge!

I didn't want to store a clump of useless metal so I charged forward.  The instructions were sparse.  So of course, you can find everything on the internet, right?  Wrong.  Well, let's just say "I" couldn't find it on the internet. I found a variety of Youtube videos and a handful of posts but nothing very comprehensive or spot on. 

I did what Tim Gunn would tell me to do - "Make it Work!"  Here's what I wrote up for myself since there was no way I wanted to struggle through this discovery process again.  Maybe it will work for you.  I'm also posting in the hopes that someone that really knows how to use this will correct my errors so there's some good information on the blogosphere on what seems to be a scarce topic.

Model:
I got the "A" style.  The Tape is folded TWICE on the TOP (Clean Finish) and NOT FOLDED on the BOTTOM (Raw Finish).  I figured this was less bulky and would provide more successful results.  The "B" style binder binds on both top and underside which would be swell on exposed straps (aka So Zo Camisole T) but doesn't seem worth the extra babysitting.

Before You Start:
Leave 1 neck seam open!!! 
Do a few practice strips of binding only to get a feel for it.  Then practice attaching it to a scrap.
This photo is an end shot after the binding has been attached. 
I chose the right back seam to leave open since my hair covers that seam the most.  :-)
 
Install Binder:
Screw – I used the 4th one which is farthest right and front.   My washer didn’t fit.  The only position that worked for me was the farthest right position.
See photos for positioning. Spout abuts the foot.

Top view - clear foot is hard to see

Side view - Spout abutting clear coverstitch foot. I love that foot it was worth buying.

Showing screw position (farthest right on my machine.
You'll have to see what lines up well for you


Prepare Binding:

In thin binding, rotary cut 1 1/8 to 1 ¼  width.  Lengthwise, cut it 5 inches longer so you have a starter strip to work with.  If fabric is thicker, you'll need to adjust.  Test test test!

.(Optional) I heard Spray starch helps control curling but it glued onto my iron!  Also read you can use water soluble stabilizer and let it dry but who has the patience?
 
 
 

Load Binding::

Binding is wrong side facing me.

Weave through curly wire.

Use tweezers to feed into tube  funnel.

Gently pull out end so it doesn’t cause further curling.



 


Whew!  Now if you're like me, you're exhausted and at this point, this is a decent place to take a break if you want.  Nothing should slip.

Part II posted separately.